More Art Nouveau

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The Poetry of József Kiss (1897), design by Nándor Gottermayer.

There’s always more Art Nouveau. Searching for term at the Google Art Project turns up a surprising number of paintings, drawings and other objects which are nothing of the sort, as well as many things which are, of course. These are a selection of the latter (mostly), and a reminder that it’s worth returning to the site every so often to look for new additions. Nándor Gottermayer’s book cover is a gorgeous design I’ve never seen before.

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Vase (before 1890) by Émile Gallé.

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Flower of Death (1895) by Akseli Gallen-Kallela.

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The Offering of Mephistopheles (c.1930) by Roland Paris.

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Salomé cigarettes

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Many food and drink brands are still marketed today as exotic pleasures; some long-running products—Fry’s Turkish Delight, for example—even continue to sell themselves via an Orientalist mystique that now seems quite outmoded. This will never happen again with cigarettes, of course, although I wouldn’t be surprised to see it tried with cannabis if it’s ever legalised.

Salome Ideal was a brand of gold-tipped scented cigarette sold to American women from 1915 to the late 1940s. I’ve not been able to find out how they were scented but the figure on the pack is a flagrant borrowing from photos of Maud Allan’s scandalous Dance of the Seven Veils. This page has a couple of ad designs.

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Maud Allan c. 1908.

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Emil Cardinaux poster from 1914 may have been for the same brand of cigarette or for a different one of the same name. Cardinaux was a Swiss advertising artist so it’s possible there was a Salomé cigarette for European smokers. More of Cardinaux’s poster art can be seen in this Pinterest collection.

Elsewhere on { feuilleton }
The Salomé archive

Weekend links 174

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Dress (2012) by Nao Ikuma.

• Two of my Cthulhu artworks can currently be seen in the Ars Necronomica exhibition at the Cohen Gallery, Brown University, Providence, RI. The exhibition is part of NecronomiCon, and runs to September 13th. In related news, my steampunk illustration has been nominated in the Visual category of this year’s Airship Awards. Winners will be announced at Steamcon V in October.

• “…the story of how a small cabal of British jazz obsessives conducting a besotted affair with the style arcana of Europe and America somehow became an army of scooter-borne rock fans…” Ian Penman looks back at the culture of Mod for the LRB.

• “What is it about the writer in the First World that wants the Third World writer to be nakedly political, a blunt instrument bludgeoning his world’s ills?” Gina Apostol on Borges, Politics, and the Postcolonial.

If someone had designed a work regime perfectly suited to maintaining the power of finance capital, it’s hard to see how they could have done a better job. Real, productive workers are relentlessly squeezed and exploited. The remainder are divided between a terrorised stratum of the, universally reviled, unemployed and a larger stratum who are basically paid to do nothing, in positions designed to make them identify with the perspectives and sensibilities of the ruling class (managers, administrators, etc) – and particularly its financial avatars – but, at the same time, foster a simmering resentment against anyone whose work has clear and undeniable social value. Clearly, the system was never consciously designed. It emerged from almost a century of trial and error. But it is the only explanation for why, despite our technological capacities, we are not all working 3–4 hour days.

On the Phenomenon of Bullshit Jobs by David Graeber

Ron Rosenbaum talks to Al Pacino about all the usual stuff, and reveals some detail about the actor’s obsessive interest in Oscar Wilde’s Salomé.

• More queer history: The Brixton Fairies and the South London Gay Community Centre, Brixton 1974–6.

• At Dangerous Minds: Anthony Burgess and the Top Secret Code in A Clockwork Orange

• Every day for 100 days, Jessica Svendsen redesigned a Josef Müller-Brockmann poster.

LondonTypographica: Mapping the typographic landscape of London.

• Mix of the week: Secret Thirteen Mix 083 by Demdike Stare.

• At Strange Flowers: Alfred Kubin the writer.

Derek Jarman’s sketchbooks.

Rick Poynor on Collage Now.

• Thomas Leer: Private Plane (1978) | Tight As A Drum (1981) | Heartbeat (1985)

Ads for The Yellow Book

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More Beardsley ephemera, and more from the recently upgraded NYPL Digital Collections. These US ads for The Yellow Book date from late 1894 to early 1895, a couple of months before Oscar Wilde was arrested and Aubrey Beardsley had to leave the magazine despite having no connection with Wilde’s activities.

What’s most interesting for me about these ads is the small vignettes, two of which I’m sure I haven’t seen before. This suggests that there’s still material in the pages of The Yellow Book which has been overlooked despite the many books which collect Beardsley’s art. The Internet Archive has several volumes of the magazine but I’ve been daunted in the past by its thousands of pages of not-so-interesting Victorian prose. (The Savoy was the superior publication where quality of writing was concerned.) Maybe it’s time to take a deep breath and dive in.

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Elsewhere on { feuilleton }
The Aubrey Beardsley archive

Lindsay Kemp’s Salomé again

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The NYPL digital library has recently upgraded its website (thanks to BibliOdyssey for the news), adding some features that make searching (and random browsing) an easier business. At first glance the contents seem pretty much the same but I definitely hadn’t seen this set of photos by Kenn Duncan before. The all-male production of Oscar Wilde’s Salomé staged by Lindsay Kemp in 1975 was the queerest of them all but pictures and a few films clips are all the record we have. The production was also vividly coloured, a quality that’s lost in these shots. There’s a lot more at NYPL by Kenn Duncan, many of them photos of film, television and theatre performers taken for After Dark magazine in the 1970s.

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Continue reading “Lindsay Kemp’s Salomé again”